How to Wear a Bharatanatyam Costume
A step-by-step guide to the parts of a Bharatanatyam costume and how they go on, for students and parents preparing for a recital.
A Bharatanatyam costume has five main parts: the blouse, the pleated fan worn at the front, the pallu across the chest, the hip cloth, and the pyjama. Pre-stitched costumes go on like regular clothes — wear the pyjama and blouse first, fasten the hip and fan pleats at the waist, then pin the pallu over the shoulder.
The parts of a Bharatanatyam costume
A complete Bharatanatyam costume is made of five stitched pieces. Knowing each one makes dressing quick and stress-free on performance day.
- Blouse — the fitted top, usually with a gold zari border to match the set.
- Pleated fan — the signature element, a fan of pleats that opens at the front between the legs when the dancer sits in araimandi.
- Pallu — the decorative cloth worn diagonally across the chest and pinned at the shoulder.
- Hip cloth — wraps the waist and hips, often with a contrasting border.
- Pyjama — fitted trousers worn underneath, matching the costume colour.
Dressing step by step
- Put on the pyjama and blouse first.
- Tie the hip cloth firmly around the waist.
- Fasten the pleated fan at the centre waist so it sits between the legs.
- Bring the pallu across the chest and pin it securely at the shoulder.
- Add temple jewellery, then tie the salangai last.
A note on fit
The costume should be snug but allow a deep araimandi (half-sitting position) without pulling. Always do a trial fitting before the event — rental costumes can be adjusted or swapped if booked early.
Learning Bharatanatyam in PCMC? Ask us about in-person classes when you book your costume.
Frequently asked questions
- What are the parts of a Bharatanatyam costume?
- Blouse, pleated fan (the signature front pleat), pallu worn across the chest, hip cloth, and pyjama. Temple jewellery and salangai (ankle bells) complete the look but are separate.
- Is a pre-stitched costume easier than a saree-style one?
- Yes. Pre-stitched (ready-made) costumes are pinned at fixed points and go on in minutes, which is why most students and rentals use them. Saree-style costumes need draping skill and more time.
- How long before the performance should I dress?
- Allow 30-45 minutes including jewellery and make-up, and a little more for first-timers. Do a trial fitting a day or two ahead.
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